How to rewire a ceiling light fixture - the easy way!

Looking at my ceilings, light-less, for the last few weeks hasn't been easy. For one, it was dark. For two, I knew I needed a light fixture by today and I didn't have one.

Answering this need was my lovely family during my recent visit to Detroit. 

The Detroit area has many old homes that are being ripped down because they're vacant (not a good reason to raze a house), because they're too run down (this is occasionally legitimate) or because they've been victims of arson and can't be repaired (again, sometimes legitimate).

In Old House Parts: A Tale of Love and Hate, I mention that I appreciate the old parts that are pulled from homes because I need them for mine but, in general, I'd much prefer they were just left alone. If that have to be pulled out, I appreciate them going to places that restore them properly.

I bought one such ceiling fixture in Detroit that wasn't restored or rewired that was just sitting on a sofa in a rather nice shop where I've bought other such fixtures. After a bit of haggling, we ended up at a grand total of $135 for what would have likely cost me about $400 finished. 

With two days to rewire, however, I was going to have a little trouble finding someone to do it for me. Time for some quick DIY-learning!

If you want to rewire a light fixture like mine, you'll need the following supplies:

• Lamp cord (18 gauge wire) - they make a really nice rayon covered one, but I've only been able to find it online. In my time crunch, I just got a spool from Home Depot. I got 300 volt wire which, with three arms, could take three 100-watt light bulbs - more than enough for our study.
• Wire strippers - make sure they can handle the kind of 18 gauge wire you purchase
• Needle nose pliers
• Sockets (if you're replacing the existing ones)
• Electrical tape
• Wire nuts - read the packaging to see how many strands of 18 gauge wire the various sizes can take
• Screwdriver

Assuming your fixture is already detached, start by laying out your supplies (1) - I chose my empty floor, but a decent sized table would likely work just as well. 

Once you're set up, TAKE A PHOTO. You'll want to unscrew the various pieces of your fixture, taking photos after each step (2). These will be your best friend when it comes to putting your fixture back together. I also took this opportunity to carefully clean my fixture, making sure it was completely dry before reassembling.

When your fixture is open, you should see wires. If they've already been cut from the arms, they'll just be in the body of your lamp. Otherwise, you might have additional taking apart to do after you cut the wires leading to the arms.

Once everything's off, you should be left with a very basic fixture without sockets (again, I'm assuming you're replacing them).

You'll need a length of cord for each arm of your fixture. I threaded mine through before cutting to length to make sure I had enough but mine were about an arm's length. Cut off the necessary length using the cutting section of your wire strippers (3).

When you're looking at the wires, you'll want to check which one has either ridges or a black stripe or something along those lines. That's your neutral wire (kind of like an initial ground) and the other, which should be smooth or without markings, is your hot wire.

The tiny ridges are on the top wire

Separate the two wires enough so that you can reach different sides of your new socket with each wire (4).

Starting with the neutral wire, strip about a half inch of the wire coating off (5). You'll then attach it to the silver screw by winding the wire clockwise (6). Then repeat the process with your hot wire and the brass screw, making sure both screws are tightened (7).

Put the socket cap (I don't know what it's really called but we're going with it) over your newly wired socket, threading the wire through the top (8).

What I did the first time (no cap)

What I did the second time

Cap attached - they can be a little challenging to fully snap down

Reattach the socket to the fixture (9), making sure you thread through all of the necessary openings. In my case, that meant about four places throughout the arm of the lamp to get to the body before I could reassemble the arm (10).

This doesn't work, take off the little switch by unscrewing it

Reattach the switch after your new socket is in place

Repeat steps 3-10 for each arm of your fixture, ending with the wires in the middle of the body of your lamp.

Cut another long piece of wire - enough to come from the body of your fixture up through any chains, attachments and ceiling fixtures and leave some left over (11). Mine was about four feet to be on the safe side.

Separate the ends of the neutral wires from the hot wires coming from the arms of your fixture (it's fine if they're still attached in some places) and strip the coating off of the ends of the neutrals. Do the same with your new main wire's neutral that's going to be threaded up the top (12).

It should look like this

Twist the ends of the neutral wires together in a clockwise direction (13). Take a wire connector and further twist the wires with it, ensuring that no wires are sticking out or splaying - give it a small tug to ensure it stays in place (14).

Repeat steps 13 and 14 with your hot wires. I added a piece of electrical tape around the wires to keep things tidy.

You should be left with a fixture body that looks something like this:

Thread the ends of your main wire up through the center of your fixture and reassemble your fixture, checking your before photos frequently to ensure you don't skip a piece (15). If you feel resistance, don't force it. Instead, move your wires around a bit to try to make it a bit easier to slide through.

Finally, hang your light and add some Edison bulbs for a nostalgic feel - the soft light is an added bonus!

I did this all for about $200 in a fixture (that could have easily cost double or more) and all of the necessary parts! We couldn't be happier with how it looks and, hey, now we even have light!

What do you think?

Disclaimers: I didn't need a dedicated ground wire in the fixture itself because of the study's particular wiring in the ceiling going back to the panel. Don't assume you don't! If you don't know what you're doing with the wiring in your ceilings, hire an electrician. Some areas require that wires run alongside the chain instead of through - check your local codes.